More Sun-Tolerant HostasHostas are a staple of most shade gardens; they love it there and thrive in the full shade. Luckily, for us hosta-lovers in the south, there is a fairly large number of hostas that do well with a bit of dappled sunshine. And wonders of all wonders, a special few even need a period of full sun to look their best.
The Golden Rule
A quick rule of thumb is to choose a hosta with yellow or gold leaves if it’s going to get some sun. It used to be that those hostas were the only sun-tolerant varieties. Hybrids have opened that up – big time. Now there are many different and unique hosta plants that will work well in your part-shade/part-sun gardens. Here are a few to choose from:
Sun Tolerant Hostas
Yellow & Yellow Variegated Hosta: August Moon, Gold Regal, Sum and Substance, Sun Power, Silver Threads and Golden Needles, Golden Sculpture Rising Sun, Squash Casserole, Stained Glass, Gold Standard, Inniswood, Regal Splendor, Sundance, Summer Lovin’, Swamp Thing, Vulcan
White Variegated Hosta: White Wall Tire, Albomarginata, Francee, Shazaam, Minuteman, Patriot
Fragrant Hosta: Guacamole, Aphrodite, Honeybells, Fragrant Bouquet, Fried Green Tomatoes, Invincible, Royal Standard, Summer Fragrance, So Sweet, Sugar & Cream
Blue Hosta: Blue Angel, Halcyon, Elegans, Krossa Regal
Green Hosta: Pearl Lake, Invincible, Hosta clausa
All sun is not created equal.
Of course, how much sun these plants will tolerate will depend on where you live: your Zone and your garden micro-climates. For gardeners in the north, you have more leeway. Just remember to make sure your hostas in the sun get enough water. For those of us in Zones 6 and further south, we need to be careful about how much direct sun hits our hostas. The southern sun is quite harsh in the summer so keep an eye on your new hostas until you are sure that they will work out in that particular spot.
How much is too much?
Don’t worry, if it’s too much sun for your hosta, it will tell you fairly quickly. Look for browning edges of the leaves and on the tips of your plant. Also look for their color to fade, becoming dull looking.
Just dig ‘em.
The good news? Hostas are a strong, hardy plant; you can dig them up and replant them somewhere else. I have one hosta that I’ve relocated three times in the last three years. This spring it popped right up and is simply stunning. In spite of, or maybe because of, my rough handling this hosta is sure to be a focal point in my shade garden. So go ahead, grab that shovel and dig ‘em up. They can take it.
That’s pretty much my golden rule for gardening. If I have to baby a plant, I’m not interested and it does not even make it into my garden. There’s too many plants and too little time.
Good thing these hostas are working with me and are perfect for my southern shade (with a tad of intense sun thrown in at times) garden.
The plan was to devote most of this spring to adding to my shade garden. That was, before my dead- grass-ugly-ugly-lawn issue became one huge problem that can not be ignored. Lots of work there and it looks like it’s going to take a couple years to get it back. But that’s another story…
Back to the shade garden. I started it three years ago by adding a few flowering bushes – lorepetulums. and a few grasses that will tolerate shade. I then added hostas and astilbe. (I once saw a photo of those two together and it’s been my shade garden dream ever since.)
not from my garden - yet!
To my dismay, both the hosta and the astilbe were very slow to take off. Last year I thought the astilbe were pretty much dead and the hostas were so puny. Where were those big, delicious mounds of heart-shaped leaves and those stunning plumes of feathering flowers? Not in my garden, that’s for sure. Too hot here in SC? Even with the dense trees giving them great shade, I had to move three because they were getting just a bit of “dappled” sunlight. I had almost given up… I decided to add a drip system back there, and amended the soil around each plant. Maybe those big trees were sucking the life out of the surrounding soil.
Now, my hostas are looking great already! Even their companion plants, those half-dead astibe are showing vigorous growth. And it’s only April! Woo-hoo. This shade garden of mine might actually make it. Time to flesh it out and start adding some more beauties to help with the vision of that lush garden in the shade..
The only area that was still stumping me was the edge of this garden, where the hot summer sun does reach in for a few hours a day. I’ve already relocated three different hosta deeper into the shade.
Then today I discovered a hosta that claims it does well in partial sun. (Well, the hosta didn’t actually do any claiming. Other people who hold Mr. Hosta in high regard did the talking for him.) Really? So did those other “part sun” hostas. Checked around with a few garden sites and yep, it seems this new (to me) hosta is GREAT in hot, part sun areas. More than one gardener called this hosta “the best new hosta to hit the market in the last decade.” All right, I’m hooked. What is this miracle plant that I MUST have in my garden?
OK – here it is (drum roll, please….) The Stained Glass Hosta
Excerpt from the Santa Rosa Gardens Catalog On-Line:
“Hosta Stained Glass has gained quite a reputation for excellence. It made Hosta of the Year in 2006. It was bred by Hans Hansen from Minnesota. It gets its name from the shiny highly detailed leaves giving the impression of stained glass in the early morning light. The large 10.5 inch leaves are a yellow-green with a dark green edging. The foliage also has a three dimensional effect with its deep veins creating great texture. In mid summer a scape will emerge from the foliage and rise 30 inches to produce light purple funnel shaped flowers. These flowers have a lovely scent and will attract bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds! Another great feature is its ability to tolerant more sun and heat than most other hosta varieties.”
And yes, I bought one, ok… three of them. And I can’t wait to see how they do here in the Part Sun area of my South Carolina Shade Garden.
All of us having the privilege of owning a residence near a lake or river are a part of a watershed: the area of land from which the surface and groundwater flows into a common body of water. 
How we tend our lawns and gardens impacts the quality of these waters. Simply put, caring for our watershed is caring for our lake.
How we can help…
We can help our watershed by understanding that we are part of the solution to water quality problems: our actions affect the water and environment around us. Keeping lawns & gardens healthy is beneficial to the water quality of our lake.
Lake-Friendly Lawn & Garden Care Tips read the rest of this post…
With so many different varieties of vines to choose from, you are sure to find that perfect one to fit into your garden.
Here are few of the most popular:
Climbing Hydrangea
Hydrangea anomala petiolaris
An amazing vine with large showy flower clusters, it’s a strong grower that will climb a wall or tree and can also be used as a groundcover. This perennial also attracts hummingbirds in late spring to early summer.
Honeysuckle
Lonicera selections
One of the most popular fragrant vines. Grows in full or part sun. Deciduous vine with flowers that vary in shades or combinations of colors including white, yellow, pink and red. Fast growing and needs yearly pruning to maintain good shape. read the rest of this post…
Even though vines are one of the easiest plants to care for, there are some tips to ensure that they will grow to become a stunning focal point in your garden.
Before You Plant
Take a look around the area that you have chosen in your garden and consider all of the factors that will affect your new vine: soil condition, watering and amount of sun.
All vines need a fertile and well-drained soil to grow in. Because vines put out extensive growth, it is important that you provide it with nutrients. Add compost, peat, or composted manure with a little bonemeal to the planting hole.
If you are planting your vine next to a wall, remember that soil around foundations may be poor initially and may need preparation. Break up the bottom soil and mix in the appropriate soil conditioners: peat moss, oilone meal, compost, etc., depending on your particular soil. read the rest of this post…
